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User Manual Full Version i6000 Standard (3.8 MB)

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i6000 Error Codes



Service tips and troubleshooting guide.

I am having a power problem.

I am having a problem shifting.

I am having a problem with my throttle.

I have issues with SYNC mode.







Power Problems
If you are experiencing a power problem first determine how your ECU(s) are powered. Your control head(s)
as well as actuators receive their power from the ECU(s). The power connector is in the right most position
and is three conductor. Follow this back if you have to. It may go to your power panel, battery switches, or
a Teleflex i1001 power distribution module. If you have an i1001 you can swivel the front cover down and see
your relay and fuse block. The green connector has your ECU power output conductors and ignition switch (purple)
wires. The blue connector is not populated generally.
Note: on your ECU power cable there are three conductors. The white wire is for secondary power. Some
installations don't use this, most dual engine or above do. The heavy red and yellow cables supply main power
to the i1001 and connect at the bottom of the unit. The black left most connector is "A" or primary power.
The gray or right most connector is "B" or secondary power. These really should go directly to your engine
battery(s). Again the gray or "B" connector may not be there in some applications.

With the above stated; If your ECU(s) are "dead" chances are they are not receiving power in the first place.
Get the simple things out of the way; battery(s) have a good charge? Switches on? Breaker closed? Fuse in i1001
blown? If possible measure voltage on the three pin power connector at the ECU(s). How does the connector look?
If you can see corrosion on the front of the orange retainer then chances are you have corrosion in your pins too.

Unless lightning is involved, generally the ECU(s) will not fail totally "dead". A more likely scenario is you
will have the green light on and no display or garbled display. If that is the case you need a replacement ECU.

If you are still experiencing a power related issue or have questions call Teleflex Electronics: 941-350-4196




Shifting Issues
Start by powering your shift and throttle system up without starting the engines.
Look at your ECU(s) for an error. If they display anything other than "Op" make note of the value and compare with
the error list. Even if it is not a shift related error it needs to be corrected now. If your ECU(s) display "Op"
then you should methodically check for shift problems in a controlled environment.
Have your boat secured well in the water and shift your engine while taking note of what is happening.
If you have multiple engines test them one at a time.
If all is fine here skip to the end of this section.
If your control head LEDs flash rapidly while shifting and stay flashing then make sure you are in neutral
and look at the error code on the ECU(s) and if any; make note of the value and engine if multiple engine application.
If you have a slow shift listen to your actuators; you should be able to hear them operate.
Does the actuator sound labored? Is it grinding?
If you have a shifting error displayed on the ECU(s) you should then determine if the problem lies with the control
system or your transmission. Simply disconnect the cable shift linkage from your engine(s) and repeat the above procedure
with your engines not running. You have now unloaded the shift actuators except for the cable. Short of a corroded/stuck
mechanical cable the system should "shift" and drive the cable with relative ease.
What does your mechanical cable end look like? Look at the mechanical setting. If your control handle is in nuetral the cable end should be set to the center of the
transmission's nuetral detent. Remember, neutral position is set mechanically as opposed to the stroke length and direction
which is configured electronically.
Is stroke length set properly in your ECU? Are you still getting a shift error?
If you are, there is either a defective electronic component, connection issue, or stuck mechanical shift cable.
Pull the electrical connector out of the socket on the suspect shift actuator and look for corrosion. You can pull the
orange retainer out to see the pins fully on the harness connector. If it looks good, reseat the connector taking
care not to bend any pins in the process.
If you suspect the mechanical cable to be the problem disconnect it from the actuator side. It is easy to do since
the cable is already disconnected from the engine side. Unscrew the manual override knob and pull the knob up until it
stops. It should come up about an inch. Unscrew the cable retainer from the output side of the actuator.
Either pull the cable or use the tool to drive the cable end out of the actuator. Disconnect the cable and try to
move it by hand. You should be able to and it should be smooth throughout its range of motion.
Cables can last many years or one season depending on how they are cared for. If your cable is hard to move
or has hard friction in certain areas, this in addition to the load required to shift the engine may require too much current
for the actuator. Consider replacing or rerouting your cable if this is the case. You can make another check here by securing
the manual override back in and powering the system up engines off. Look for the same shift error. Is it there? If not; you
are almost assured it is the mechanical cable. If the mechanical cable is good and electrical connections look good, you
probably need a replacement shift actuator.
If you have a dual engine or higher setup consider swapping the shift actuator electrical cables at the ECUs.
Does the error follow the actuator? If it does then you are almost assured it is the actuator.

If you performed the initial troubleshooting and your engines are shifting with no problems it sounds like you should make a
config change to your shift delay. This would be especially true if you have had an intermittent issue while docking for instance.
You change the delay in the feature menu: "FE". Consider changing it to 1100 ms instead of the default 480 ms.

If your system checks out fine with the shift cables disconnected from the engines chances are your gear case needs servicing.
Service history shows that out of all problems related to shifting 50% of the time it is the engines transmission/gear case at fault.
Since you have the cables disconnected consider trying to shift the engine manually.
If it takes all you have to shift the engine or return to neutral the actuator is not going to be able to do it.
Take care when you reinstall the throttle cable in the actuator that you don't cross-thread the retainer. It should
go on with ease almost all the way to the end.

If you are still experiencing a shifting related issue or have questions call Teleflex Electronics: 941-350-4196





Throttle Issues
Throttle problems are easy to diagnose because you can test this without having the boat in the water.
Start by powering your shift and throttle system up without starting the engines.
Look at your ECU(s) for an error. If they display anything other than "Op" make note of the value and compare with
the error list. Even if it is not a throttle related error it needs to be corrected now.
If you have no errors present engage nuetral warm up by pressing the "N" button on the control head.
The amber nuetral light(s) will start to blink.
Exercise your throttles. You should hear your throttle actuators moving. View your throttle linkage at the engine.
As you move the control sticks your throttle actuation should be smooth. It is normal for there to be slight nudging
by the actuator after stick movement is stopped. It should not be constantly pulsating.
If your control heads lights flash as you are exercising your throttle stop and look at your ECU(s) for error codes.
If you have a throttle related error code procede to narrow down the component at fault. Start by disconnecting
the electrical connector from the socket on the suspect throttle actuator and look for corrosion. You can pull the
orange retainer out to see the pins fully on the harness connector. If it looks good, reseat the connector taking
care not to bend any pins in the process.
If you suspect the mechanical cable to be the problem disconnect it from the actuator side. Unscrew the manual override
knob and pull the knob up until it stops. It should come up about an inch. Unscrew the cable retainer from the output
side of the actuator. Either pull the cable or use the tool to drive the cable end out of the actuator. Disconnect the
cable and try to move it by hand. Note the engine side of the throttle cable is still connected. Use the engine side
throttle linkage if you like. Either way you do it it should feel free and smooth throughout its range of motion .
Cables can last many years or one season depending on how they are cared for. If your cable is bound or your throttle
linkage is frozen this is more than likely your problem. If connections and the cable check out you probably need
a replacement throttle actuator.
If you have a dual engine or higher setup consider swapping the throttle actuator electrical cables at the ECUs.
Does the error follow the actuator? If it does then you are almost assured it is the actuator.
Take care when you reinstall the throttle cable in the actuator that you don't cross-thread the retainer. It should
go on with ease almost all the way to the end.

If you are still experiencing a throttle related issue or have questions call Teleflex Electronics: 941-350-4196





Sync Issues
To perform sync operation the ECUs need to be able to communicate with each other and have a relatively clean tach
signal. If you have a problem with sync mode start by powering your system up without the engines running.
Look at your ECU(s) for an error. If they display anything other than "Op" make note of the value and compare with
the error list. If they have a "13" displayed that is your issue with sync mode and
you should check your "comm" (green plug) cables. Make sure they are connected together via a DeviceNet tee and that the
junction has terminators on each end. If connections are good and there are no other devices connected to this network
you need a replacement ECU as one of them has stopped communicating. This CAN bus is for the shift and throttle system only.
If you have other devices on this bus you should remove them. You can get more information on CAN networks here.

If you have no error codes and press the "sync" button on your control head the red light should come on and stay.
Entering and exiting sync mode require handles to be within 5% of one another.
At this point you should be in "power train sync mode". The system should operate both (or more) engines with the port
handle. Unless there is an electronic failure or lack of/noisy tach signal the system should maintain sync very well.
A couple hundred RPM difference at places on the load line is normal. 500 RPM or more is not.
If you have an issue where sync mode seems to drift on one engine, or it is simply not in sync at certain times or have
questions regarding sync opertaion call Teleflex Electronics: 941-350-4196